ULTRA RUNNING
by Brett Lehigh
March  26, 2005

Winter is over, not officially but spring weather has arrived. The hills are green, the trails are drying up, the skies are reliably clear and…ultra-running season has started. So get out and run- well, ultra-run.

            What’s an ultra? An ultra, more correctly, an ultra-marathon, is any competitive run longer than a marathon. This is a fringe sport- like curling except not nearly as spectator friendly.

            The ultra season in California is kicked off with the Cool Canyon Crawl which starts at the fire station in Cool, CA (look just S of Auburn on highway 49).  The race, abbreviated to “Cool,” as in, “are you running Cool this year?” is a 31 mile (50k) jaunt staged largely on single track within shouting distance of the American River. How popular is this race? Its 450 runner limit filled in 15 minutes! If you weren’t certain whether you wanted to run it or not, you had a quarter of an hour to mull it over- then the decision was made for you.

            All the big names in ultra-running do Cool. Jorge Pacheco, Leland Barker, Scott Jurek, Tim Twietmeyer, Nikki Kimball- these are runners with 100 mile reputations who use Cool as a training run for events later in the year.

            The run begins at the fire station. It follows an abandoned and aged paved road for a couple of kilometers almost due west. Then you hit single track (any trail not wide enough for vehicular traffic) and pretty much stay on single track the entire race. There is 3600 feet of climbing in the race, which by 50k standards, is not a lot. The downhills, however, are on rutted, muddy and rock strewn trails that demand the concentration of a fighter jock. Much of the course gently undulates under the trees.

            How does an ultra work? They’ve evolved. Cool features chip timing like all the major marathons. If you’re not familiar, you are issued an unassuming piece of plastic to attach to you shoe. Inside, via some nifty electronic gizmo, both your starting time (when you run over the mat) and your finishing time (over the same mat again) are recorded.

If you were a spectator at the starting gate, what you might notice is that almost everyone wears Montrails- they are the running shoe of choice for about 95% of the runners. Mostly what you might notice however, is the get-ups some runners choose to run in. Button down shirts, floppy shorts, gaiters, foreign legion hats, sweat bands; these are the poster children for the Salvation Army Olympics. And almost every runner is equipped with some type of pack- a fanny pack, a hydration pack, an energy belt or a low-volume backpack. This is a race of endurance and preparedness and not just of speed. Although a 50k is the shortest of the ultras, even its distance can overwhelm. Typically a runner will carry power bars, gel packs, electrolytes, Ibuprofen and at least a quart of water which gets refilled at each aid station. MP3 players are beginning to be pretty standard equipment as well.

What goes on out on the trail? There are solo runners, there are friends who run together- whee, it’s a social event and then there’s pace lines; you find a crowd running your speed, drop in and hang on as the miles churn past.

Generally you can hear an aid station before you see it. It’s an oasis on the trail, a Howard Johnson’s after miles of interstate. Aid stations are placed about every 7 miles and standard fare includes not only high energy food- peanuts, chips, boiled potatoes, pb&j on ww bread, M&Ms, gummy bears but also medical supplies (Vaseline, Ibuprofen, first aid) as well as a variety of thirst quenchers ranging from common supermarket Coca~Cola to more exotic electrolyte replacement drinks. Volunteers abound- helpful, knowledgeable, enthusiastic and supportive. It’s a good crowd.

The miles pass. The question I get most often about ultras is, “do you run the entire distance?” Personally, no, but the more elite, better trained and faster gazelles toward the front of the pack are capable of that accomplishment (and our finishing times reflect that fact). My credo is, “run when you can, walk when you can’t and pray that you finish before the cut-off.” I don’t expect to win and I never have.

Cool continues. After the first aid station there is a climb then a long descent, then a river crossing, then a climb, a descent, another river crossing. This is typical for an ultra- climb, descend, cross, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat.

Today, I am suffering- I am slow and can’t summon any energy. At the mile 20 aid station, I pull out all stops. I am not a fan of gel packs but I shoot one because nothing else has been working. Immediately leaving this aid station the trail turns up “ball bearing,” a long grinding hill punctuated with large rocks. I do pretty well on the hill and as I crest my legs almost immediately recover. Slowly I trot, then accelerate a little. Finally I feel good. As the crowd heads back toward the fire station, my pace is strong and I start moving through the pack. I am ten miles from the finish and the winner has probably already had a bowl of chili and is lounging in the shade. But there are still a load of runners on the course.

The miles pass more quickly- faster than any other portion of the race for me that day. I pound down the trails, grind up the uphills, accelerate as I crest and let gravity work for me on the downhill slopes. The trail turns and I face Goat hill. This is a nasty little bit of uphill- switchbacks that wind up about a 500 foot climb. Fifteen minutes later and at the top of Goat hill, however, is civilization- an aid station with ice cold Coke!! Nothing has ever tasted better.

4.4 miles to go. The trail is mostly level for a bit and then drops. I am still overtaking runners. I’ve run Cool before and am quite familiar with where I am and what to expect. This is a huge advantage- things always seems shorter when you know the course. My feet send up small puffs of dust as I pound down the trail. “Don’t overdo it,” I think to myself to avoid cramping. My calves are ready to take a hard right into the Overtired Hotel. It’s been warm and I’m sure I’m dehydrated despite the electrolyte tabs I’ve taken.

There is the sound of traffic which means the trail crosses route 49 ahead and then turns onto the final homestretch. I quit worrying about overdoing it and instead head for the barn like a workhorse who’s smelt oats. The last aid station is a mere 1.7 miles from the finish- I’m so anxious to be done that I don’t even stop. It’s a grind up hill, a lesser hill, a bit of flat, a left, a downhill, a right and then the finish line. As I plod under the banner, the clock is just shy of six hours- a long time to be on your feet.

There is something very satisfying about running an ultra though. It’s an accomplishment that makes you feel like you’ve done something and you’re part of the running elite. It’s a good crowd of people- not blood thirstily competitive but instead always cheering you on, encouraging you and wishing you the best. The season has just begun- if you’ve been considering running an ultra, you could put one on your calendar for later in the year- it’d be a great goal.

Check out Ultrarunning.com for a national calendar of events. Have fun out there!

 POINT REYES
by Brett Lehigh
August  25, 2004

         Even though it’s only a short drive from Castro Valley to the Point Reyes National Seashore, when you get there, you’re a world away from the bay area bustle. It’ll take you less than 2 hours from your driveway to the trailhead- and it’s well worth the trip. This is a great destination for day hikes, for a sunrise to sunset excursion or for a couple of nights of backpacking. If you plan an early start on a regular two day weekend, you could do two nights of camping, two days of hiking and then wander through wine country on your way home.

It’s an easy park to get to. Take 880 north to 80 then to 580 (just to get your daily dose of the 80’s), cross the Richmond bridge and head N on 101. Just past San Rafael, you’ve got two choices- either Sir Francis Drake Boulevard or Lucas Valley Road. LVR is less congested and more scenic although there are a couple of turns you’ve got to be sure you make. Both roads take you very close to the trail head at Bear Valley Visitor Center (1 mile west of Olema) where there’s a ton of free parking.

The visitor’s center has historical displays, walls full of pictures, racks of brochures, displays of flora and fauna, live rangers to assist; pretty much everything except free coffee- you’d think the rangers could chip in. It’s worth hanging out there for 15-20 minutes before your trip just to learn a bit more about the area.

The Bear Valley trail is a main artery into the park. Farther south, Five Brooks trail takes the brunt of the equestrian types so the Bear Valley crowd is mostly comprised of hikers, joggers and bikers. As Bear Valley trail wanders into the park, there are loads of satellite trails to hike. The shortest loop you can do is about 5 miles long but an out and back hike is always an option too. If you’ve got time and want to do a bit more distance, you can tailor a route of almost any length. If you’re interested in visiting the park, check out the map at www.nps.gov/pore/pdf/trailss.pdf. There are no less than 50 named trails comprising over 200 miles of hiking. (That’s just a guess.)

Point Reyes is a cool park. It undulates without any extreme climbs or descents- Mt. Wittenburg is its tallest peak (more like a mound) at 1407 feet. Don’t expect sweeping panoramas. But what is interesting about the park is that it offers several microclimates. The trail may be dusty dry and wandering through waist-high scrub and half an hour later, it’s puddled with water and snaking through a misty forest and then just as quickly can morph into swampy grasslands. The trails vary from truck width fire roads to brush choked single track, some are monotonously flat while others have been nibbled out of the hillsides and you can’t take a flat step. But they all offer something- wildflowers, ocean vistas, verdant woods, twittering birds or phew, finally, the parking lot.

It’s a ways from the trailhead to the coast (about 4 miles) but once you arrive, the Coastal Trail follows (this is too obvious) the coast. Two of the park’s campgrounds (Wildcat and Coast camp) are on this trail and although not a day’s hike apart, could each accommodate you for a night apiece on a two day trip. They’d both be excellent base camps for extended roaming. Between the two campgrounds, there are some unique and interesting rock formations (Arch Rock area) that are worth exploring or having lunch atop.

The campgrounds are both quite flat with enough space for a number of campers and a handful of privacy. They are restroom equipped but I would check at the trailhead about the availability of water at each- this seems to be a bit hit or miss.

We didn’t overnight, we just did a medium length day hike (16 miles) without ever retracing a step. We hiked down Bear Valley trail (predominantly downhill) and eventually made our way to the Coastal trail. Although it was foggy with limited visibility, we watched a seal play in the surf from a bench perched on a lookout on the ocean side of Wildcat camp. We also spotted deer, a variety of birds, snakes, some antelope looking things, and an occasional lizard. We heard elk bugling and there was plenty of evidence of coyotes using the trails for something other than hiking. I’m sure more critters than that make their homes there.

Weather is changeable and usually cool. Dress appropriately (layers) or carry a fleece. The trails aren’t so rugged that footwear is a major concern. Tevas, hiking boots or any kind or running shoe should be adequate. Avoid high heels- especially if you’re a guy.

Leaving the park, we opted to skip wine country and instead drove the short 4 miles north on route 1 to Point Reyes Station. You approach this town from the south and then turn right for a block, left for a block and then right again before the town disappears behind you. It’s a huge weekend biker hang out (both Harleys and Lance Armstrong wannabes) and seems generally bustling. As you head into town from the south, there’s a nouveau Mexican restaurant on the left with interesting variations of all the standard fare and all excellently prepared with modest prices. It’s a different type of place with indoor and outdoor seating but no table service. You place your order and leave your name with the cashier- when your dinners ready, the restaurant crier barks your name. It seems to work and adds to the casual atmosphere. The town and the restaurant complement the park. It’s almost as if the rangers were on the board of advisors. “This is the type of people that the park attracts so plan accordingly.” It’s casual tourism where you feel like you’re a part of things.

And two hours later, you can be back home and feeling like you’ve been somewhere and done something worthwhile. It’s a destination that offers a variety of feelings as the mix of weather, terrain, people, microclimates, seasons and animals are never quite the same. It’s a rainforest inside a desert beside an ocean next to a city. I’ve been there a handful of times and feel like I’ve only dented what the park has to offer. If you’re hanging out and need to commune with nature, this park should fulfill your needs...especially if your needs change every thirty minutes or two miles, whichever comes first.